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GERMANY

Top Things To See
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Venture into Berlin, the largest city in Germany, the country’s capital, and the seat of Government. The German Parliament (Reichstag), designed by British architect Norman Foster, testifies to the construction boom in the German capital. Since November 1989 when the Wall came down, nearly 100 streets have been reconnected, disused ‘ghost’ railway stations have sprung back to life and the watchtowers, dogs and barbed wire that divided the city, the country and indeed the continent for 28 years have virtually disappeared. Nevertheless, there is often stark contrast between the two parts of the city, partly due to economic contrasts between East and West, but also because they have never been of a uniform character.

Explore the eastern side of Berlin to help conceive what life might have been like when the Wall still stood. The east contains the densely populated working-class quarters of Mitte, Pankow, Prenzlauer Berg and Friedrichshain, which inspired the theatre of Erwin Piscator and Bertolt Brecht. After the city was occupied by the four post-war victorious powers, the two halves diverged even more as West Berliners broke away from their past and embraced the idea of a new, intensely western, Americanised city. At the same time, eastern counterparts chose to retain what remained of the old Berlin instead. This is why the eastern half of the city probably gives a more accurate image of what Berlin was like in the 1920s and 30s. To find areas retaining the pre-war atmosphere, visitors must move away from the city centre. The People’s Park Friederichshain in the eastern part of the city is the largest and oldest park in east Berlin. The Deutsche Staatsoper (German State Opera) stages performances in a classical setting. Alexanderplatz was one of the main centres of 1920s Berlin as well as of post-war East Berlin. It is an important focal point in the city. Relentless modernisation, however, has changed the character of the Alexanderplatz, which is now a bustling if faceless area of cafes, hotels and the 368m- (1207ft-) high Television Tower (Fernsehturm), which dominates the skyline of the city. It is also home to the World Time Clock and The Fountain of International Friendship.

Stand next to where was the site of the Berlin Wall. Unter den Linden was what Frederick the Great saw as the centrepiece of his royal capital and which changed from one of the premier thoroughfares of the old unified city to the showpiece of the German Democratic Republic. Restored monumental buildings and diplomatic missions to the former GDR capital now line it. However, for nearly 30 years it was a dead-end, cut off by the Wall. At its western end, the Brandenburg Gate (Brandenburger Tor) has been the supreme symbol of the city of Berlin since it was built in 1791. The Wall once partly obscured the view of the Gate from the West, so it became a potent symbol of European division. Now it is again accessible from both East and West. The Berlin Wall has all but gone and walkers and cyclists now roam along what was once nicknamed ‘Todesstreifen’ - or Death Strip. Quite a few tourists bought their ‘own’ piece of the Wall – museums also display pieces. • Germany is awash with cultural highlights preserved in museums and galleries. Berlin houses three opera houses, over 150 theatres and playhouses and no less than 170 museums and galleries. Included in this is the Berlin Wall Museum situated at the former Checkpoint Charlie in Friedrichstrasse. The Ägyptisches Museum (Egyptian Museum) in Charlottenburg contains the world-famous bust of Queen Nefertiti. The Berlin Museum is in the old Supreme Court Building in Kreuzberg. East Berlin has a rich array of museums, five of which can be found on Museumsinsel (Museum Island) in a fork of the River Spree. The most famous is the Pergamon Museum which houses works of classical antiquity such as the Pergamon Altar and art of the Near East, Islam and the Orient. The Bavarian capital, Munich (München), the third-largest German city and 800 years old, contains numerous museums and galleries. The Alte Pinakothek is home to the largest collection of Rubens paintings in the world. Two other galleries of note are Pinakothek der Moderne, and the Museum der Fantasie. The Glyptothek on the Königsplatz houses Greek and Roman sculptures. Bonn was administrative capital of Germany until 2000 and is still host to a number of museums on the Museum Mile, including Kunstmuseum Bonn (Bonn Art Museum), Kunst und Ausstellungshalle der Bundersrepublik Deutchland (art and exhibition Hall) and the Museum Alexander Koening (zoological centre).

You must see one of Germany's exquisite castles and, to be truthful, you are downright spoiled. The country has many of them and their quality matches their quantity. Coburg Castle (13th to 16th centuries) is one of the largest fortified sites in Germany, and towers over the former ducal capital (and one-time refuge of Martin Luther) of Coburg, in Bavaria. In the Baden-Württemberg region, the Neckar Valley - a major wine-growing region - is located around castles such as Gutenberg, Hornberg and Hirschhorn, each of which offers splendid views of the surrounding landscape. Traces of Frederick the Great are evident at Rheinsberg, immortalised by Kurt Tucholsky’s tale of the same name, whose interior of the beautifully situated castle is still undergoing restoration, but visits are possible, and one of the towers houses a Tucholsky Memorial. Schwerin Castle, on the lake of the same name, surrounded by a terraced garden crossed by a canal and the state capital of Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania, was for many decades the residence of the Dukes of Mecklenburg and is one of the finest examples of German Gothic architecture. Rüdesheim, famous for its Drosselgasse, a narrow lane with many little wine bars and pubs, some serving the delicious Rüdesheimer Kaffee (locally produced brandy with coffee), has a cable car which takes visitors up to the beautiful Niederwald Castle, a starting point for walks in the Taunus hills. Perhaps the most famous castle of all is within the Upper Bavaria region. A spectacular feat of architecture, and epitomising the fairytale landscape of Bavaria, Neuschwanstein Castle, built by Ludwig II, is constructed on the ridge of a mountain valley surrounded by snow-capped peaks. It is a vision from fairyland during the day, and indeed inspired Disney's portrayal of the beautiful castle in Sleeping Beauty, while at night it changes into the perfect sinister home for Count Dracula.

Pay a visit to one of Germany's host of romantic university towns: Freiburg is the gateway to the Black Forest and an Archepiscopal see and old university town, with its architectural masterpiece, the Gothic Cathedral (12th to 15th centuries) with magnificent tower (116m/380ft), the historic red Kaufhaus on the Cathedral Square (1550), Germany’s oldest inn, Zum Roten Bären, and many excellent wine taverns; Heidelberg is the most famous place on the Neckar River and Germany’s oldest university town, dominated by the ruins of its famous 14th-century castle; Tübingen, south of Stuttgart, is a world-famous romantic university town also on the River Neckar, with an unspoilt old town centre complete with a Castle of the Count Palatine (1078), a late Gothic Collegiate Church (1470) with royal burial place and former student dungeons (1514); and Rheinland-Rheinland, state capital of Rhineland-Palatinate, is a university town and Episcopal see dating back 2000 years, situated on the rivers Rhine and Main, with an 1000-year-old Cathedral.

Go to Constance (Konstanz), a German university and cathedral town, and stare across at the enormity and beauty of the Bodensee (Lake Constance), which has shores in Austria, Switzerland and the Germany. Constance is a frontier anomaly, a German town on the Swiss side of the lake, completely surrounded by Swiss territory except for a strip on the waterfront. Attractions include the Konzilsgebäude (14th century); Renaissance Town Hall (16th century); historic old Insel Hotel (14th century); Barbarossa-Haus (12th century); Hus-Haus (15th century); and the old town fortifications Rheintorturm, Pulverturm and Schnetztor. The town has theatres, concert halls, a casino and hosts an international music festival as well as the Seenachtfest, a lake festival. As an area, Lake Constance is the focal point of a delightful holiday district, rich in art treasures and facilities for outdoor activities.

Germany also has some spectacular countryside, from its well-known Black Forest to vineyards such as those which nestle inbetween Bavarian towns and are famous for their Bocksbeutel (specially formed bottle). The picturesque Schorfheide area of forest, north of Berlin, contains beavers, otters and eagles, and in the centre of this landscape of birches and pines lies the Werbellin Lake. East Friesland, on the North Sea coast of Lower Saxony, consists of a wide plain interspersed by ranges of tree-covered hills known for their health resorts and modern spa facilities, as well as their fine sandy beaches. The traffic-free East Friesian Islands also offer relaxing health-oriented holidays. Sea air and scenery along the coast guarantee a happy and restful holiday atmosphere. In contrast is the large nature reserve between the rivers Elbe and Aller further inland. The countryside comprises moorland with wide expanses of heather, grazing sheep, clumps of green birch trees and junipers. In Rhineland are the vast plains of the Lower Rhine farmlands, the strange volcanic crater lakes of the Eifel Hills, the Bergische Land with its lakes and Altenberg Cathedral and the Siebengebirge. Rhineland and the Moselle Valley attract visitors not only for their beauty and romanticism, but also for the convivial atmosphere engendered by wine and song. Like most of its tributaries, vineyards line the Rhine wherever the slopes face the sun. Alternating with the vineyards are extensive orchards, which are heavy with blossom in spring. The Ahr Valley in the Eifel region is particularly renowned for its lush scenery and its red wine.

In Hessen, feast your eyes on what speckles the German Fairy Tale Road. As the name might suggest, Schwalmstadt was the home of Little Red Riding Hood, a town where people still wear traditional costumes to church on Sunday and at folk festivals. In the Reinhardswald, Sababurg – now a castle-hotel – inspired the Brothers Grimm to write Sleeping Beauty. The romantic scenery of the rolling hill country of the Odenwald is one rich in legend and folklore. Kassel is home of the Grimm Brothers Museum. Away from the Fairy Tale Road, but still worth a visit, is the town of Hameln (Hamlyn), famed for the tale of the Pied Piper, found in the Weser Valley near Hannover. A play about the infamous piper is re-enacted during the summer months every Sunday at noon.

Explore the medieval Hanseatic League, whose main members were the towns of Hamburg, Lübeck, Bremen and Rostock. The Hanseatic League an alliance of these four trading cities who established and maintained a trade monopoly over the Baltic Sea and most of northern Europe between the 13th and 17th centuries. Their greatness and wealth through such trade is evident in the long-lasting delights of these towns. Hamburg is the second-largest city in Germany with a population of 1.8 million people and its attractions include the Baroque Church of St Michael (der Michel), the Town Hall with its distinctive green roof, the elegant Hanseviertel and the Alster Lake, the biggest lake inside a European city. In the city’s heart is the Planten und Blomen park near the Congress Centrum Hamburg, with its spectacular fountain displays during the summer evenings. Lübeck is a picturesque oval-shaped old town, ringed by water, which still has many reminders of the city’s medieval golden age and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It justly claims to be the most beautiful town in northern Germany. The Holsten Gate, the Rathaus and the many examples of northern red brick town houses are part of the historic heritage. Thomas Mann set his famous novel, Buddenbrooks, here, and Buddenbrook House (Buddenbrookhaus) contains the Heinrich and Thomas Mann Centre, giving information on the life and works of both authors. Bremen is the oldest German maritime city, having been a market town since AD 965, but for all its history, also boasts two of the country’s most modern high-tech visitor attractions: the interactive Universum Science Centre and the Space Travel Visitor Centre. Historic Bremen clusters around the marketplace, featuring the Gothic Town Hall (1405-1410), in front of which stands the Roland, the statue of a medieval knight and symbol of the city. The extensive pedestrian zone includes a sculpture of the Bremer Stadtmusikanten (Musicians of Bremen), made famous in the fairy tale by Grimm. Also part of this is the Schnoorviertel, a district full of medieval charm, with narrow cobbled streets now housing art galleries and exclusive shops. Lastly, Rostock has a University founded in 1419, the first in Northern Europe, and its attractions include the elegant burghers’ houses in Thälmann Square, the 15th-century Town Hall, the late-Gothic St Marien Church with its 15th-century astronomical clock and Baroque organ, and the district of Warnemünde with its fishing harbour and seaside resort.

Almost midway between Rüdesheim and Koblenz, see the symbol of the Rhine, Lorelei Rock - which has provided the inspiration for many songs about its legendary siren for centuries.

Leipzig has a fascinating history. Lenin printed the first issues of his Marxist newspaper here. Lessing, Jean-Paul Sartre and Goethe all studied at the university. Music and books are important – there are no less than 38 publishers in the city, and it is Wagner’s birthplace. The German Museum of Books claims to be the world’s oldest of its kind. Mendelssohn was director of music, and Bach was choirmaster, at the now completely restored St Thomas’ Church, between 1723 and 1750. There are museums dedicated to both composers in the city. Bach’s church choir still exists and is of an excellent standard, as is the city’s Gewandhaus Orchestra and visitors can go to Mendelssohn's House where he lived and died. The old University (1407), the famous Auerbach’s Kellar and the Coffe Baum, the most famous of the city’s cafes, are further attractions in the city. Today, Leipzig stages major international trade fairs.

One of the most famous Reformation towns is where Martin Luther nailed his ‘95 Theses Against Indulgences’ to the door of the castle church in 1517. Numerous magnificent buildings from the 16th century – Luther’s House, the Melanchton House, the Castle Church and the buildings of the former University bear witness to the town’s historical significance. Martin Luther is an extremely important figure in Germany history, having effected the standardisation of the German language. His theology also paved the way for modern religion, and therefore Wartburg Castle, where Martin Luther sought refuge and translated the New Testament into German, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and dominates the town of Eisenach. The cultural centre of Thuringia contains an Augustinian Abbey where Martin Luther lived as a monk.

See the southern 1000-year-old town of Weimar, home to many great men, including Luther, Bach, Liszt, Wagner and Schiller. An important cultural centre of the past, the city experienced its golden age in the 18th and 19th centuries. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe lived here for 50 years and was a major influence as a civil servant, theatre director and poet. His house is now the Goethe National Museum. Literature enthusiasts should not miss the Goethe and Schiller Archive. Bach was Court Organist and Court Concertmaster, Liszt and Richard Strauss were both directors of music. There is documentation of their private and public lives kept in hotels and museums in the town. Weimar was also the original home of the Bauhaus architectural school before it moved to Dessau.
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